Last day in Amsterdam

We squeezed in four museums for our last day in town. We started our day at the Anne Frank house. This was the place where Anne Frank and her family hid for two years during the Nazi occupation. We were able to walk through the place and examine pages of the diary. It's a must see.

We also went to a place called Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder which is a catholic church that was hidden in the attic of a private citizens home. Catholic churches were converted to Protestant in the late 1600s by the order of their new king, so catholics had to have their services in secret. This building survived mostly as it was configured so it was cool to see. The church occupied the top two floors of this house and even had all the features of a regular church like the confession room, pipe organ and area for the priest to live.

On our way to our next stop we walked by the edge of the red light district, it was still too early for the ladies to be working. Since the ladies were not in the windows you could see to the back area where the business was conducted.  Too bad we didn’t get a family selfie here…

Anyhow our final stops were the Royal Palace, and the Amsterdam museum. Both were just OK, not to sound too snobby but after you see the chateau and royal palaces in France and England, the rest of the worlds royal palaces don’t compare.

Four Museums in One Day!

You would think with all the walking yesterday we would take it easier today. We actually recorded fewer steps as we decided to get an unlimited public transportation pass for the rest of our stay. The idea of walking 2.5 miles just to get to our first stop didn’t seem appealing so we jumped on the tram. We should have done this the day before and bought a three day ticket, oh well.

Our first stop was the Dutch National Maritime museum. The museum is located in a 360 year old building on the harbor. Moored was a replica of a 17th century sailing ship used for trade to the West Indies which we were able to explore. Also on display but dry docked was the 200 year old original royal row boat used for official functions on all the waterways surrounding the country. They also had a collection of maps from the 1600s on display.  Also included in the admission was an aerial 360 degree VR tour of Amsterdam during the 17th century. I was a little woozy afterwards.

Afterwards we stopped at the Dutch resistance museum. It details the life of the Dutch during German occupation and how a the Dutch resistance group helped the allies and their citizens during this time.  My favorite part was in the back, which was actually their childrens area. They documented the lives of 4 children during that time, a regular Dutch citizen, child from a Jewish family, a child of a prominent Dutch resistance person and a family sympathetic to the Nazis and a member of their Hitler youth.  You could see how their lives were impacted before, during and after the war based on their backgrounds.

We also went to Microbia which is a museum dedicated to microbes. The museum reviews all the different microbes with real samples you can view under a microscope.  It was very educational and made me wonder if I should be using any of the handrails on the staircases.

Finally our last stop was the Rembrandt home and museum. This was Rembrandts actual home where he painted, taught painting and sold paintings till he lost the home to foreclosure later in life.  It was a big house so I guess his paintings were not worth as much back then.

Christmas Day in Amsterdam

The reason we are ending our German Christmas market tour in Amsterdam is that shops and museums are open on the 24th and 25th. In Germany the holidays start on the 24th so we would have had two days sitting around if we stayed in Germany.

Today we went to the Van Gogh Museum, the Stedeljlk (museum of modern art) and the Rijksmuseum which is their national museum.  It wasn’t so busy at 10am but a few hours later the museums were crowded. We picked these three as they were in the same area of Amsterdam. We also had the bonus of the Amsterdam Christmas market between the museums. Their food was different with burritos, herring sandwiches, fried fish and of course sausages.

It ended up being a 18k step day. We were exhausted but still stopped at the grocery store on the way home to figure out what to make for Christmas dinner.  Our airbnb has the nicest kitchen of any place we have stayed so it's nice to cook after being out all day.

Amsterdam arrival

We drove into Amsterdam around noon and discovered that the town is challenging to drive through. It’s not the traffic, it’s all the trams, bikes and pedestrians as there are dedicated bike lanes of every major street, and the trams are in the road as well. The folks in Seattle who were adding the bike lanes should have looked at how Amsterdam implemented theirs. It’s not an ugly confusing mess like it is in Seattle.

I used Airbnb and found a house on the edge of the center core around the corner from a tram stop. It looked like it was in a pedestrian only street but our GPS took us down the little alley and we were able to park near the house. The owners were there and greeted us warmly. The only thing that could make our place better would be a location few blocks closer to the center core. Otherwise we are in a recently renovated row house with a huge kitchen and amenities for a chef including an green egg charcoal cooker. Just like home! After our tour the super nice owners left for their Christmas holiday and I went to return the rental car.

Our rental for the week was a Volvo V60 wagon with the turbo diesel and 6-speed manual transmission. It was a fine car for the driver but a bit snug for the three boys and our luggage in back. I thought I was paying for a larger car but instead I was paying the extra for a “premium “ car. At least the boys didn’t complain about the space. After my experience in Scotland a few summers ago I paid extra for the full insurance even though I knew that my credit card would cover any damages. I didn’t want to deal with the nit picking rental return inspection.  The Europcar rental place in the city wasn’t as picky as the Edinburgh office so I could have saved the money. Oh well.

The drop off was about a mile away so I just walked back to the house and then went to the grocery store that was a few blocks away.  The grocery store was open late on the 24th so we were able get everything for our Xmas eve dinner and breakfast the next day. Unfortunately beef must not be a European thing so I ended up doing a pork roast outside on the egg. Roast ended up overcooked as I didn’t find the meat thermometer till it was too late.

Paderborn

We made a special stop to visit our old AuPair Petra. #4 was less than a year old when she lived with us. We visited with her and her partner Sébastien during our last tour of Germany two summers ago but it was nice to see them again in their new house and talk soccer with S who is a GK coach for the youth development program for Dortmund.

Every German town seems to have a Christmas market and Paderborn is no exception. It was bigger than Trier's but smaller than Nurnberg. It was busy but not overcrowded so it was nice to walk around together and have a Petra translate the different items for sale. They had one of my favorite food items we experienced at the Christmas market: fire cooked pork steak. It made for an excellent sandwich!

Nurnberg

It was a quick drive from Stuttgart to Nurnberg. We arrived around lunchtime and went to our hotel in the center of the old town. There was a city lot next to the hotel but with tiny parking spots. I’m surprised that cars don’t have door dings like they do at home.  Anyhow our rooms were not ready so we went to the market for food. It seems that the markets all have the same cuisine, so we had the half meter bratwurst again, pork steak sandwich again and a pretzel. I can’t believe that it would be possible to be tired of sausages!

Afterwards we headed out to the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände. Aka Documentation Center Nazi Party Grounds. This is a museum that’s placed in one of the buildings and grounds where the Nazi party held their giant rallies that you see in the period films. The museum details the history of the party, how it came to power, the use of propaganda and their brutal methods for growing and maintaining their power.   The museum ends with the Nurnberg trials.  I’m glad we visited the museum but I feel that they could have done a better job of presenting the materials as it was all presented on an audio guide vs having captions next to the various artifacts to read.

Afterwards we went back to our hotel and back to the market to shop and eat.  I’m not sure if Nurnberg lives up to their reputation of being the best Christmas market in Germany. It was nice but the market in Stuttgart was way bigger with a better choice of food.

Stuttgart

There was still snow on the ground during our drive from Trier. Fortunately it hadn’t snowed in a while and the roads were clear as my rental doesn’t have snow tires and Snow tires are required for all cars in Germany.  I picked a hotel in the middle of downtown in their pedestrian walking area. It made parking a challenge but it was better for exploring the Christmas market. However the citizens of Stuttgart stay up late and the area in front of our hotel was noisy till 1am! Since we were hungry we headed over and ate our way through the market. We had the half meter long bratwurst, spatzle with cheese, pork steak sandwich, cherry filled bun with vanilla sauce,

The next day we visited Lena, Marcel and their brand new baby. It was nice to catch up with them, we saw them during our last visit to Stuttgart. Afterwards we went back to the Stuttgart market as there was another huge section of vendors we missed. I think the family was tired eating sausages so we had dinner at a local swabian restaurant where the boys tried new things like venison goulash, goose, and the other local specialties like the Maultaschen, which is similar to a huge meat filled ravioli. We also bought #2 his first beer, I guess we will need to come back in two years when #4 is of age to keep up with the tradition.